“Think of wine as you would a condiment to accompany your food”
Michael Simms, head sommelier, SartoriaAs any sommelier will tell you, matching the perfect wine to your meal can really enhance its flavour. But with so many bottles to choose from, where do you start? I asked three head sommeliers for advice and we came up with a handy list of tips for eight different foods, from soups to shellfish and desserts.
The sommeliers:

Michael Simms, head sommelier at Sartoria restaurant. Michael has been at Sartoria for three years and previously was head sommelier at Claridges, The Savoy and The Ritz.

Agustin Trapero is head sommelier at Launceston Place. He was previously at Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck and Restaurant 1901 at Andaz.

Shana Dilworth-Thomas is head sommelier at Orrery restaurant and was previously wine director at Andaz and head sommelier at Skylon.
Where to start…
“Think of wine as you would a condiment to accompany your food,” says Michael. “What would you add to a dover sole, for example?” he says. “A squeeze of lemon or a teaspoon of sugar? You want lemon juice, so go for a wine that’s crisp and fresh. You can either contrast flavours, or go for similarity. It’s like finding the ideal marriage.”
Smoked salmon starter
Smoked salmon has a fatty texture best accompanied by a fresh, fruity sparkling wine, according to Agustin, who recommends champagne, Cremant de Loire or Cava from Spain.
Shellfish
“Shellfish needs acidity,” says Michael. “The one thing it really doesn’t need is a big tannic red, which makes both taste like a tin can.” Shana recommends pairing with a Burgundian Chardonnay or Pinot Gris from Alsace. “Lobster, for example, is really quite an interesting flavour,” she says. “You need a wine with body and enough flavour to match.”
Fish
It’s not true that red wine and fish never work together, but you do need to avoid rich, tannic reds. Shana recommends trying pinot noir and raw tuna – a match that works because they “balance each other out”. She also pairs pinot noir with a pavé of salmon and Castelluccio lentils, on the menu at Orrery restaurant.
Soup
A crisp, dry white wine can make the perfect accompaniment to soup, according to Shana. It cuts through the richness of a meat stock or creaminess of your soup and the contrast of hot soup and cold wine makes it refreshing. Go for something crisp like Sancerre or Picpoul de Pinet; never something rich like a creamy Chardonnay.
Red meat
Tannins in red wine work really well as an accompaniment to red meat. You are best off going for something rich and full-bodied, for example a Malbec, Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon.
Chocolate
“Chocolate and wine are long time lovers,” says Agustin. “Think of the way that the ripe prunes and cocoa aromas of a Banyuls (Grenache noir) embrace a chocolate fondant.” He recommends trying fortified wines that develop flavours perfect for chocolate, such as Rasteau, vintage ports and Pedro Ximenez sherry.
Dessert
The sweeter your dessert is, the sweeter the wine should be, explains Agustin. Bear in mind that sweet wines range in acidity, says Shana, who likes to serve a sweet wine with a crisp finish by the glass to leave your mouth refreshed and clear. Her top tip is to pair crêpes Suzette with a Muscat like Beaumes de Venise, which echoes the orangey flavour of the crêpes.
RECENT FEATURES
Are natural wines to be celebrated or approached with caution? Two experts speak out...
> READ MOREArtful Diner Diary: a taste of what’s to come with champagne Henri Giraud
> READ MORE
